coregeek on Instagram

E Jones

Fabricator of cool stuff. Co-host of @craftandgeek podcast. Check out my tutorials on YouTube.

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I’m completely sold on 2k primer for 3D prints! One heavy coat and two passes of sanding. This is ready for paint in less than a day! For comparison my old rattle can process would take 3-4 days. 3dmodel from @3dworkbench #3dworkbench #cyberpunk2077 #militechvindicator9mm #3dprint #3ddesign

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Here’s the full Cyberpunk 2077 Militech 9mm kit all printed. Amazing model by @3dworkbench I’ll be finishing this up in the next few days. #cyberpunk2077 #3dworkbench #3dprint #cr10 #3ddesign #knolling #propmaker

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Another favorite photo from the Marvel photoshoot. This one is by @downenphotography @downen_creative_studios as Wasp, suit and accessories made by her. Helmet handmade by me. #scratchbuilt #handmade #antmanandthewasp #monsterclay #sculpture #smoothon #marvelbecoming

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Swipe ⬅️ for full photo. Couldn’t resist a shot of these helmets together. All were handmade by me from scratch. Made from many different materials. They all have @smoothon products used, in one form or another. #maker #propmaker #marvelcostume #handmade #starwarscostume #antmanandthewasp #returnofthejedi

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Happy Blizzcon Y’all!!! Sadly I can’t be there this year. Here’s a throwback to my first Blizzcon 2016, where I had two props in the hands of amazing friends. @vertvixen as Arthas @arms_armor_awesome as Pharah. #blizzcon #overwatch #worldofwarcraft #blizzardcosplay

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Wasp Helmet DONE! Here are some final glamour shots of the finished helmet. The final step beyond assembly was to lightly weather the crevices with oil paints. Special thank you to @omg_dj_judy and @jason_latorre for bringing me onto the project. To Beverly from @downen_creative_studios for making the complete costume so spectacular! I actually shed a tear when I finally saw it all together. Last but not least, thank you to @smoothon for providing the Silicone, Resin and Epoxy I used to create this. See all the work-in-progress photos here: #wasphelmetbuild ··· #scratchbuilt #handmade #antmanandthewasp #monsterclay #sculpture #smoothon #marvelbecoming

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Wasp Helmet commission for @marvel #marvelbecoming Here's a quick video from almost the beginning to the end. Of course I thought of making this late into the process or it would have more steps included. See all the work-in-progress photos here: #wasphelmetbuild ··· #scratchbuilt #handmade #antmanandthewasp #monsterclay #sculpture #smoothon #sfxatlas #resincast #cosplay

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Wasp 18. The orange lens was the final part I created for the helmet. It's made from 2mm PETG plastic. I got lucky with the process for creating this. I originally thought it was gong to need to be vacuformed and dyed to color. Those are all things I can do but they take extra time. In testing out options, I found that the lens didn't need vacuforming and I found orange vinyl headlight tint (from Amazon) in the correct color. The last thing to figure out was the thin etched line. I was able to fake the etching by masking off the lens, cutting out the line and spraying it with Matte Clear spray from Krylon. I took several attempts to get it right, I originally tried silver paint. You can see some of the tests here. See all the work-in-progress photos by following #wasphelmetbuild ··· #scratchbuilt #handmade #antmanandthewasp #monsterclay #sculpture

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Wasp 17. Once the paint was complete (see post Wasp 16) I concentrated on the lighting. (Due to being in a bit of a rush, I only took a few process photos.) The helmet has 5 lights in all: two in the tips of the antennas, two forward in the cheeks and one large on the center rear. I made the lights with 3mm red led's. They needed to look like solid blocks not individual LED's. Fortunately, my friend Svetlana @kamuicosplay had given me a small sample of transparent Plastizote foam (aka LED foam), when I had visited her a few weeks earlier. After doing some tests I found that the Plastizote diffused extremely well. The video and photos don't do the diffusion justice. In person the light blocks glow without individual separation of each LED. (SWIPE TO SEE TEST VIDEO). The trickiest lights to install were the antenna tips. I had to hollow out the tips which were very narrow and fit in 2 LED's then cover with the Plastizote. For the wiring I created a dado in the back of each antenna to hide the wires in. Once I installed the wires I back filled the dados with Apoxie Sculpt. The wires connect to the helmet at the ear pucks with slip connectors. Those were added because the antennas were removable for transportation if needed. To get deep reds when lit up, I coated the Plastizote in several layers of Mod Podge (to smooth it out) then a final layer of transparent red acrylic paint. All of the lights and a small fan, which I mounted in the nose for exhaust, run off a single 9v battery. The lights and the fan are on separate switches so the fan can be turned off if needed. To get power to the front half of the helmet I created slip contact points in the circuit which connect when you close the helmet and disconnect when you open it. That eliminates any need to connect wires manually. See all the work-in-progress photos by following #wasphelmetbuild ··· #scratchbuilt #handmade #antmanandthewasp #monsterclay #sculpture #ledlighting #ledcosplay

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Wasp 16. Due to running low on time, I decided not to remold the helmet parts. So I went straight to painting it. I used Tamiya Acrylics airbrushed for finish. Chrome Silver for the main helmet, Gunmetal for the cheek inserts and Grey for the lens frame. I also attached the top plates and added the carbon wrap to the backplate. See all the work-in-progress photos by following #wasphelmetbuild ··· #scratchbuilt #handmade #antmanandthewasp #monsterclay #sculpture #smoothon

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Wasp 15. The final part of the helmet detailing was the raised backplate. I considered molding it from sculpted clay then casting it but I was running out of time. I decided on the quickest method I know: EVA foam. To harden the foam for priming I brushed on multiple layers of @smoothon Smoothcast 300. Normally I'd have used Epsilon Pro for this but it has a much longer cure time, so I made 300 work. At this point I was still planning on remolding the helmet front and back so I wasn't too concerned about the foam holding up to abuse/wear Once the backplate was complete I continued with more sanding, filling priming. This was the first project I used 2k primer on. See all the work-in-progress photos by following #wasphelmetbuild ··· #scratchbuilt #handmade #antmanandthewasp #monsterclay #sculpture #smoothon

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Wasp 14. Having made a successful resin helmet cast (see post Wasp 13) meant I could move onto creating the top plates. When I began the project I decided to make the plates separate from the main helmet. The finish would be achieved by wrapping them with Carbon Fiber vinyl. The plates are form fitting and I was at a bit of loss as to how to achieve the shapes and perfect fit. I chose to use EVA foam, mostly because it's easy to curve and it would be quick. I originally intended to just cover the foam in the vinyl wrap but I became concerned it wouldn't hold up well. I changed my mind and decided it would be best if the plates were resin cast as well. I prepped the foam plates by brushing on Smoothcast 300 with a foam brush then body shopping them to smooth out. I chose this because it was the fastest way I could think of. (Photo 4). In casting the foam pieces I needed a way for the plates to retain the correct curve while I molded them. I decided to create a buck of the top of the helmet. I made the buck by pouring A LOT of resin into the top 3rd of the helmet mold. (Photos 2&3). With the buck made, I temporarily adhered the plates, one at a time, to the buck and created a dump mold over the plate. (Photos 5&6). Once that half of the mold cured, I removed it from the buck. I finished it off as a two part mold by brushing on the second half. (Photos 7&8). The molds are ugly and the process wasn't pretty but the results speak for themselves. The photos only show one of the molds but I made two the exact same way. Test cast is photo 9. Photo 10: The final plates on the helmet before vinyl wrapping. The buck was cast in @smoothon Smoothcast 65D resin, the molds are Rebound 25 silicone and the top plates are Feather Light resin. The vinyl wrap is 3M Grey Carbon. See all the work-in-progress photos by following #wasphelmetbuild ··· #scratchbuilt #handmade #antmanandthewasp #monsterclay #sculpture #smoothon

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OH SNAP! (Sound on!!) Here's how I made the Wasp helmet wearable. Slush cast from Smoothcast 65D by @smoothon To see how I hand made this helmet for Marvel from scratch follow @coregeek or #wasphelmetbuild ・・・ #scratchbuilt #handmade #antmanandthewasp #monsterclay #sculpture

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Wasp 13. With all of the molds ready (see post Wasp 12) I moved onto casting. I cast all of the parts in @smoothon Smoothcast 65D resin. The helmet was my first slush-cast. Unfortunately I neglected to take photos of the cast directly from the mold. These photos were taken after I had already cut out the lens hole and spot filled all of the imperfections. The helmet is form fitting, so it was essential to split it into two parts, otherwise it would not have been functional as a helmet. It closes back together with magnets. (See video in my timeline.) At this point I was still planning on remolding the two halves after they were cleaned up and primered. I eventually gave up on the re-molding due to time being a factor. So what you see here are the parts of the actual helmet handed over to Marvel. See all the work-in-progress photos by following #wasphelmetbuild ··· #scratchbuilt #handmade #antmanandthewasp #monsterclay #sculpture #smoothon #resincast

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Wasp 12. With the clay masters for the helmet, ears and antennas completed, I moved onto creating the molds. Molds are required in order to be able to resin cast the actual parts. For the helmet, I created a brush-on mold. The silicone glove (inner silicone) was made from @smoothon Rebound 25 and the Mother Mold (outershell) from Smoothon Plastipaste 2. This was the first time I had ever created a brush-on mold. I won't cover the process here. I followed Smoothon's excellent tutorial you can find on YouTube under "Cosplay Tutorial: Iron Man Helmet" which is a two part video. I also got a lot of advice from my buddy Nick @modulusprops , so special thanks to him as well. For the the ears and antennans, I created a simple one part dump mold also using Rebound 25 because it's what I had on hand. See all the work-in-progress photos by following #wasphelmetbuild ・・・ #scratchbuilt #handmade #antmanandthewasp #monsterclay #sculpture #smoothon #rebound25

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Wasp 11. With the main helmet sculpting done, I switched focus to creating the ear pucks and antennas. I started with a 3D modeled and printed base which I made myself (grey material). Again, this shows my very rudimentary ability to create in 3D. (In case you’re wondering why I didn’t just make the entire assembly in 3D.) Once I had the base of the puck printed, I sculpted the remaining in Monster Clay (medium). For the antennas, I originally attempted to sculpt them from Monster Clay but didn’t have much success, after wasting more time than I’d like to admit. It’s hard to tell from the photos but there’s 5 different angles to the shape of these. I switched to tooling foam (orange material) and was able to create them only a few hours. See all the work-in-progress photos by following #wasphelmetbuild ・・・ #scratchbuilt #handmade #antmanandthewasp #monsterclay #sculpture

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