So yesterday was a good day.
My rehab has been going really well these past few weeks so I 'celebrated' by climbing some comp style boulders.
It sounds stupid but I have really missed this, hanging on bits of wood and board climbing is both fun and great training but you just don't get the level of diversity in holds and movement plus there is virtually zero problem-solving.
Pockets, big slopers and more specifically dynamic movement between them is something that I have been staying well clear of so these two blocs were a welcome change.
The result? My fingers felt great (and didn't break), my body felt super strong but I was quite shocked at how much contact strength I've lost.
Analysing these training videos, as a result of this weakness and I think an overall lack of confidence I've noticed a nasty habit developing whereby I make a number of hand adjustments pretty much every time I grab a hold.
It's not something that I am able to address now as the required work would put a lot of uncontrolled stress onto my fingers but as my rehab progresses I will definitely need to work on eliminating it as it's hugely inefficient.
Anyway, I really hope I can keep riding the recovery roller coaster without falling off and keep this momentum going for my trip outside later this year. I've booked my flights now so, either way, I'm going but it would be nice to be challenging myself rather than just writing a diary of self-loathing and taking pictures of sunrises/sets, although I'm fond of that too.