If I would write a diary, it starts like this: 🏄🏄Got barreld the first time, not only once -> twice today and will never forget that session in 😍😍 My day started not spectacular at 7am when I got awake because of the snorring from my room mate in our wood hut. After breakfast I took care about my board and had to fix it because I hitted the reef a few days ago. I was not sure if I worked prober as it should be but my ding repair was alright but not beautiful. The point is my second board was with a shaper so there was no choice to change boards.
Last night the massive arrived with lot's of rain, so i decided to check Marinhal next to Sagres, which normaly not often works but it was big and powerful. I decided to drive more east of the to find a bit protected spot. Next to i found clean offshore conditions, several peaks, waves between shoulder and a bit more than overhead. In the beginning of the session I was more worried about my ding repair but it looked good and I kept .
In the first 45 min I just scorred 3 and suddenly it was easier to catch waves in the inside with less water. I had a couple of fun waves with a lot of speed and some turns. Not always perfect but I was focusing on my goals.. Then there was this moment.... I have seen the set coming on the horizont and decided to take the second wave. I paddeled for it, quick pop-up and at the same time looked to the wave. Out of my pop I had my first speed pumb, was in the upper part of the wave with full control. After that I realised the section will close and I went for the through with more weight to my front foot and then everything was so quick....the water next to my frontside was blue, it got dark next to my outside rail, water changed from blue to a mix of sand and blue...I could see the open part of the wave....unfortunately I did not make it out but I was full of adrenalin about the experience...I didn't thought this is gonna happen so quickly => my first short barrel.... with pure stoke I went for more waves and got barreled again, even a bit longer but did't find the way out.
WHAT A MOMENT,WHAT A MEMORY