Bright canary with just the slightest imagination of haze. Grassy peat jumps out of this one, headed into Sauv-Blanc territory cautiously but stopping far short of full-blown varietal confusion. Although first breathe, blind... I don't know... I might have gone the SB route. With a little air, a far creamier nuance emerges, edged with greenbriar, chopped greens and nutty, toasted dessert. Crisp and sharp in the nose, a nice volatility calves off acidity, but it never quite blossoms the floral and tropical fruit I associate with this variety. We are now slightly above 60°, and I keep searching for it--is it lurking back there? It certainly is shy.
Anyone who reads me half-regularly knows I am an unabashed Gewürztraminer fan. Gruner and Riesling rarely wow me, and I search out Gewurtz wherever I can find it. Anderson Valley--obviously--houses most of my favorites, with random pockets of interest scattered through the Central Coast. Here we have an entrant from a perennial favorite of mine for white wine: Clarksburg! It definitely is a unique style.
In the mouth, a density and body far beyond what I am used to with Gewürztraminer. Unctuous and fleshy, it rotates gobs of chewy mineral, acid and even tannin into the palate. In the finish--as the blockbuster tirades settle--a hint of the tropical and ripe floral, alongside a walnut-skin structure. As you inhale over your last swallow, you finally feel the breath of the variety.
This is a big monster of a Gewurtz, and my recommendation would be: if you are a huge RIESLING fan, and never quite saw the appeal of Gewurtz, get ahold of this wine. You will LOVE it.
2017 @ Wilson Vineyard 13.1